Physicwell and Horn

Date:             25th March 2021 

Destination:   Stoke Trister and Cucklington 

Distance:     17.06 miles

Duration:     3 Hours

Weather:        12 °C sunny intervals

Blackmore Vale from Beech Lane by A303

After last weeks epic 23 mile ride JC requested a much shorter ride today, so I decided we would head across to Cucklington, but with an added little detour to Stoke Trister thrown in. 

The first three miles of our journey along Temple Lane and Gigg Lane always pass by very quickly as JC and I usually have a weeks worth of catching up to do, although we did pause briefly to listen yet again to the crows nesting near Gigg Lane Railway Bridge. 

At the end of Gigg Lane we turned left and travelled north towards Wincanton.   Cycling along we tried to work out which field we had emerged from on a very interesting ride a few years ago. We had attempted to cycle along the disused railway from Templecombe to Wincanton.  We soon realised the route did not really exist! What was to be a bike ride turned into an exhausting obstacle course, involving nettles, bramble, many gates, fences and fields of bullocks.  That was a ride we shall not be repeating or likely to ever forget! 

Just before Moor Lane Sports Ground we turned right into Common Road and right again into Shaftesbury Lane.  We stopped next to a converted chapel and as we were discussing the property, a lady popped out from behind the bushes.  The owner had overheard us chatting about her house and had pondered whether to remain hidden or show herself.  Fortunately, we had been nothing but very complementary!   The owner explained about the existence of a spring now called Physic Well"  "a Holy Well or Sacred Spring that treated a variety of disorders including asthma, scurvy, bilious conditions, scrofula, erysipelas and diarrhoea" The Megalithic Portal - Physic Well 

Physic Well Chapel

Horwood Spa, later renamed Physic House and situated next to the converted chapel, was developed between 1800 and 1809. "A two storey limestone villa was built over the spring with a sunken bath and a chapel, stable and dormitories were available for patients. The forgotten spas and mineral springs of south-east Somerset by R. D. Mather and H. C. Prudden 

In 1819 the Messiter family business went bankrupt and the Horwood Spa buildings passed into private ownership. 

Physic House and Pyhsic Chapel lie south west of Coneygore Hill.  Further along Shaftesbury Lane we saw a couple walking up the hill and I commented to JC that this would be a great walk to do for my wedding anniversary the following day.  The resulting video below was indeed taken from the summit of Coneygore Hill the next day and pans round from Cucklington  to Wincanton.  The Dorset Downs can be seen in the distance and the A303 can be seen and unfortunately heard south west of Wincanton.

The Blackmore Vale from Coneygore Hill

We cycled around Coneygore Hill turning left at the end of Shaftesbury Lane and left again onto Bayford Lane to Stoke Trister, a picturesque little village  situated on the south eastern slope of Coneygore Hill and thus shielded from the constant hum of the A303. 

Stoke Trister

We cycled over the summit of the ridge and down towards St Andrew's Church accompanied by far reaching views over to King Alfred's Tower on Kingsettle Hill.  Unfortunately there is no escaping the A303 traffic noise here.

St Andrew's Church Stoke Trister, Kingsettle Hill in the distance.

 

We turned around from St Andrew's Church, retraced our way back through Stoke Trister and took a left along Beech Lane, the end of which runs parallel to the A303.  Driving along the A303 east to west you get a fleeting glimpse of the Blackmore Vale, the same view can be seen from Beech Lane, albeit from slightly lower down. 

View of the Blackmore Vale from just below the A303

Concerned we might end up on the slip road to the A303 we paused at the end of Beech Lane to get our bearings.  We turned right onto the B3081 and right again to stay on this road. A left turn at this point would’ve seen us cycling onto the A303.

Wherever possible we avoid cycling on main roads, with no margin for error one has to concentrate on keeping close to the edge of the road, strong gusts of winds made this more difficult today.  We were relieved to turn right into Tinker's Lane and away from a busy road.

Right again and we were soon overlooking St Lawrence’s Church, Cucklington, the sun momentarily disappearing behind a cloud, resulting in a rather dark  photo. A little further on and we were sitting on our favourite bench at Cucklington eating our fruit and looking out once more over the Blackmore Vale.

St Lawrence’s Church Cucklington

We decided to head back along the top of the limestone ridge, spotting a couple of large Staddle Stones on the way back.  JC informed me that these were used to support granaries to keep the grain off the ground and away from vermin.  There is a fine example of a Dovecote/Granary set upon Staddle stones  on the corner of  Dry Lane and B3081 on the edge of Gillingham, Dorset.  We cycled past Dry Lane's Dovecote/Granary on 3rd February on our way Wyndham's Oak Tree, next time we'll stop for a closer look.

Staddle Stone

Pausing at the top of Gigg Lane Railway Bridge we waved to the driver of the approaching 4:29pm train from Templecombe to London and received a horn blast in return and another as the train emerged from underneath us.  With big smiles on our faces, I was reminded of the 1968 BBC dramatisation of E. Nesbitt’s “The Railway Children”  and the children waving to passing trains. I wish I had kept my camera recording on top of the bridge. 

Gigg Lane Railway Bridge

Interesting to note that my chain did not come off my bike at all during this or our previous ride. Thanks must go to DK, who spent some time working on my gears, adjusting the limit screws on the derailleur and straightening a couple of chainrings to ensure a smoother transition .   Compounding the issue is a bike chain that has stretched considerably over the last six years, so I now have a new chain waiting to be fixed to my bike.  Going for a further upgrade my bike will soon have new front and rear sprockets too, although they have yet to arrive.  The biggest sprocket at the rear of the bike  will have six extra teeth, which should make it easier for me to cycle uphill. I will keep you posted.

New bike chain and chain gauge

 

With lockdown gradually easing,  we shall soon be permitted to travel further afield and now JC has acquired a bike carrier we hope from time to time to venture forth into the southern reaches of the Blackmore Vale,  travelling to a start point in different vehicles.   

JC's recently acquired bike rack

With glorious weather today it was great to be out and about. Towards the end of the ride and with the sun lower in the sky I was reminded of my lap top cushion pictured below, a Christmas present from JC a few years ago.  The design of the cushion was based on sunlight flickering through trees during one of our bike rides.

Lap top Cushion, made by JC

Our Route 

Hardy and Marlott

Date:             18th March 2021

Destination:  Marnhull 

Duration:     4 hours

Distance:      22.9 miles

Weather:      10 °C Partly Cloudy 

With much better weather forecast today's route was one I had originally planned to cycle the previous week but had postponed because of poor weather conditions.  Marlott (Marnhull) is referred to in Thomas Hardy's novel Tess of the D'Urbervilles, as is the Pure Drop Inn, (The Crown) and Rollivers (The Blackmore Vale Inn). These were our main destinations today.

Heading east from Templecombe towards Buckhorn Weston we paused briefly on Gigg Lane Railway Bridge to listen to and watch a murder of crows squawking noisily to each other.

Crows nests adjacent to Gigg Lane Railway Bridge

From Kington Magna there are three roads from the vale up to the ridge, Barton Hill, Church Hill and Chapel Hill.  The latter was our chosen route today.  Half way up I  spotted a couple of beacons which I thought may have been used in 2012, a year that saw the UK celebrate  the Queen's Diamond Jubilee and host the London Olympics. We stopped by a dilapidated gate to take a closer look, only to discover to my disappointment that they were phone masts.  The masts are only just visible in the background of the following photo.

Chapel Hill, Kington Magna

At the top of Chapel Hill we turned right and then made our way south across the A30 to Fifehead Magdalene, where we made a very short detour to sit atop a wall at St Mary Magdalene Church for a break.

St Mary Magdalene Church,  Fifehead Magdalen

After eating our fruit we wandered around the graveyard and discovered a lovely view east towards  Duncliffe Woods.

Duncliffe Woods from St Mary Magdalene Church

Back on our bikes we cycled down Fifehead Hill for the very first time.  We have cycled up this hill often (or should I say cycled and walked) but never in the opposite direction.  This made for a pleasant change.  At the bottom of the hill we turned left into Mill Lane, crossing over the River Stour before heading up into Marhull.

River Stour, Mill Lane, Marnhull

On turning left into Burton Street we spotted a "spittoon" of llamas which we felt necessitated closer inspection.  Unfortunately we were unable to get any nearer so abandoned our quest and headed for The Blackmore Vale Inn or Rolliver's as it is referred to in Tess of the D'Urbervilles.

Rolliver's, Marlott

Photos taken we once more set off and now with St Gregory's church spire in sight we pedalled up Church Hill and turned left towards  the Crown Inn.  (The Pure Drop Inn in Tess of the D'Urbervilles.) 

Pure Drop Inn, Marlott

Our next destination was King's Mill south west of Marnhull.  We turned round and cycled along New Street towards Cox Hill and a very fast descent which saw me reaching speeds of 30mph.

Cox Hill, Marnhull

At the bottom of Cox Hill, we stopped at  King's Mill, a redundant water powered corn mill. Built in the early 19th Century, it is now a Grade II Listed building, "which retains a good collection of historic machinery, with features and fittings which illustrate the milling process from start to finish." British Listed Buildings - King's Mill

King's Mill, Marnhull

There is much of interest at the bottom of Cox Hill.  Downstream from King's Mill is King's Mill Bridge,  built in 1823 and another Grade II listed building. An inscription on the bridge warns people of the risk of transportation for life if the bridge were to be damaged!  The River Lydden joins the River Stour south of King's Mill Bridge and with the River Cale having joined the Stour a little further up stream this area is prone to flooding.

King's Mill Bridge, Marnhull

Transportation for Life Sign on King's Mill Bridge

River Lydden joining the River Stour, King's Mill

 Having finished looking at all the wonderful sights we cycled over the bridge and up King's Mill Road turning  right into Lower Road  towards Stalbridge, cutting along Jarvis Way to Station Road and then down towards Gibbs Marsh Trading Estate.  

Normally from Landshire Lane we head towards the A30 crossing over to join Park Lane and then onto Yenston.  This week however I wanted to avoid the stretch of main road from Yenston to Templecombe because of the steep hill on the approach to Templecombe.  At the end of a very long ride we both find this hill a struggle and a little dangerous.  The fear is that if one of us were to stop on the ascent we could end up bumping into or under a passing car. 

Instead we continued along Marsh Lane this time taking a left turn towards Henstridge and what a gem this stretch of road turned out to be.  Tucked away behind the main drag, free from industrial estate traffic it was peaceful and pretty.

Marsh Lane, Henstridge

Continuing in our efforts to avoid  approaching Templecombe from the south and aiming instead to arrive from the west we cycled through Henstridge turning right onto the A357 at the Bird in Hand Pub and then left onto the A30. Unfortunately neither of us had anticipated the long hill out of Henstridge which at this late stage in our journey turned out to be rather hard work.

We took the first right into Bowden Road towards Henstridge Bowden.  Another lovely stretch of road, parts of which are on a ridge flanked with mature trees, with views both to the east and west.

As well as avoiding the hill at Yenston there was another reason for arriving at Templecombe from the west,  a wonderful long downhill ride along Bowden Road.  We could coast along and relax in the knowledge that no more effort was required for the remainder of our journey.  

At the end of our longest ride to date JC looked as exhausted as I felt. Culturally and historically, a fascinating ride with wonderful views to boot.

Stalactites and Fly Past

 Destination         Kington Magna

Date                    11th February 2021

Duration:             2 hours 20 minutes

Distance:             14 miles

Temperature:       1°C (Wind Chill factor -5°C)

With such low temperatures ( -5°C including the wind chill factor ),  I planned a much shorter route than usual for this ride and also ensured I was dressed appropriately for the cold weather.  I wore two pairs of socks, walking boots, leggings and tracksuit bottoms, vest, top, two fleeces, raincoat, scarf, hat and two pairs of gloves.  JC seemed to be similarly attired.  

We headed off across the Blackmore Vale  from Templecombe turning right at Buckhorn Weston towards Kington Magna. Little sunlight had filtered through the overhanging trees and onto the road , with much ice in evidence and stalactites hanging from nearby twigs and leaves.

Stalactites

We arrived at Kington Magna  turning left into South Street and then left again into West Street.  It is great to see the old red telephone box, adjacent to the Village Hall, of benefit to the community.  Shelves, full of books, line two sides of the kiosk.  A poster on the rear of the kiosk invites us to phone  for further information on the village "Book Exchange".  Further on I spotted a hedge in the process of being laid.  I asked if I could take a photo but was advised that there was still some work to do before it was completed.  I suggested taking a photo another time and we cycled on.  I shall check on progress next time we cycle past.

Telephone Box Book Exchange Kington Magna

We continued up Church Hill to All Saints Church, Kington Magna for our refreshment break. Two benches either side of the south facing door afforded us panoramic views across the Blackmore Vale.

Two benches at All Saints Church, Kington Magna

In the distance we could see sunlight reflecting off the lines of cars stored at Henstridge Airfield.

Sunlight reflecting off cars at Henstridge Airfield

 

In all the years we have been cycling around the Blackmore Vale and sat on the benches at All Saints Church, we never realised we were looking down upon a medieval fish pond, until I recently read  an article about Kington Magna by Rodney Legg.

https://www.dorsetlife.co.uk/2006/12/kington-magna/

Medieval Fish Pond at Kington Magna

Not wishing to stay still for too long, we continued on our way.  A little way up hill from the church our nostrils were assaulted by a very strong unpleasant smell.   Given that there are a few large barns with silos adjacent to the road, we can only assume the smell emanated from that direction. 

At the top of Church Hill we turned left heading north towards Sandley.  Last weeks ride took us  over the main London Waterloo to Exeter railway line at Bugley Bridge, east of Sandley tunnel.  This week saw us above the other end of the tunnel facing west.

On top of Sandley Tunnel looking west

Access to the tunnel is from the western side, where Network Rail have fixed an Access Point Information sign to the fence.

Access Point to Sandley (Gillingham) Tunnel

Not wishing to climb up any more hills than necessary we  avoided Vessey's Holehill and Shutes Lane, taking the third left towards Cucklington.  Due to the cold weather and as planned we  headed back towards Buckhorn Weston  via Wayclose Lane, rather than continuing to Cucklington.

We sped down Weston Hill turning right into Templecombe Lane and back towards Templecombe.  En route an helicopter, probably from Yeovilton Air Base, flew across the road in front of us, behind the trees to our left, then circled round behind us and back alongside us to the right before veering northwards. Our very own "Fly Past."

Helicopter Fly Past

Just before arriving back in Templecombe we stopped at a gate to chat to a friend  By this time my toes were numb and I had to stamp around and wiggle my toes quite a bit before I got some feeling back. 

With the constantly changing landscape through the seasons, we always experience new sights along the way and our ride this week in very low temperatures was no exception. My only regret is that I forgot to charge the batteries for my action camera, consequently there aren't any video clips for this trip. 

Route 

Wildlife and Floods

22^nd January 2021. 

 

After much rain, Thursday promised to stay dry, as we set off for a leisurely, socially distanced cycle ride across the Blackmore Vale, dressed for the cold weather, with hats, gloves and multiple layers of clothing.  
 
This week the circular route I had planned included Yenston, Marhull, Fifehead Magdalene, Kington Magna, Buckhorn Weston and Templecombe.  As much as possible we try to avoid using main roads, or those with heavy traffic, so to avoid  traffic heading towards Gibbs Marsh Industrial Estate we cut across from Marsh Lane, through Henstridge Airfield and onto Landshire Lane. 

As we cycled along Landshire Lane it was evident that the River Cale had breached its banks and the road was flooded.   Not to be thwarted we pressed on, cycling through the flood.
 

Floods in the Blackmore Vale

With very wet feet we had a brief discussion on where to cycle to next.  We had three options.  Continue East, head back towards the A30 or cycle to Stalbridge.   We ruled out the latter option as it would've meant a much longer route with cold wet feet.   As we were deliberating, a couple of cars/vans stopped to say that they didn’t think we’d get through the next flood around the corner heading East towards Fifehead Magdalene.   A car was stranded in the middle of the flood and we were told the water would reach our knees.  

 It is here that the River Stour briefly comes alongside Landshire Lane.  Amazingly the  Cale and Stour rivers do not meet at this point but a bit further south after the Cale has meandered its way past West Mill Lane, near Stalbridge.  The Stour eventually makes its way to Christchurch and out into the sea.

We thought we’d cycle around the corner to see the extent of the flood for ourselves.  Sure enough there was a car stuck in the middle of the flood and as we looked its hazard lights went out.  Our decision made for us, we retraced our tracks and headed back through the airfield and onto the A30.

Surprisingly the River Cale had also spilled out onto the A30, but fortunately for us it did not cover the whole road.  The central line markings were visible, marking our route through.  We slowly cycled along the middle of the A30 holding traffic up as we did so, until we could safely return to side of the road.  Strangely it was near a bend a little way along the road after the flood that a lorry decided to overtake us.  With another lorry coming the other way I stopped pedalling believing I was going to get cut up.  The lorry coming from the opposite direction also slowed down.  Somehow the overtaking lorry managed to pull back in without any incident!  We turned off the A30 as soon as we could and cycled towards Kington Magna.  

All Saint's Church Kington Magna

Although our feet were cold we thought we could last a while longer so we took ourselves up to All Saint’s Church at Kington Magna, for a much deserved rest, tangerine and drink of water.  There are two benches situated either side of the West facing door overlooking the Vale. (The picture above shows the north facing door)  From this vantage point we could see the recently negotiated flooded A30. 

Feeling rejuvenated we decided to head up onto the ridge and then down Hartmoor Hill to Buckhorn Weston.  This is an exhilarating downhill ride, it's just a shame there is a sharp bend at the bottom to slow you down.  Just after the bend there is a newly laid hedge on the left. 

Newly Laid Hedge, Hartmoor Hill, Buckhorn Weston

The next leg of the journey from Buckhorn Weston to  Templecombe again involved us negotiating flood water from the River Cale and adding to the moisture content of our already wet footwear.

It was along this road that a barn owl flew out in front of us.  We would follow it for a little way then it would disappear before coming back out onto the road again.  This happened three times until it disappeared for the last time near Bow Brook.  An absolutely fabulous experience and our second sighting of a barn owl on our cycling travels.  The first sighting a couple of weeks ago occurred on the road from Wincanton to Buckhorn Weston.  A large barn owl flew over a hedge in front of us and in its talons it held a small creature.  We followed in total awe until it veered off towards some buildings.

As we made our way past Bow Brook we met some mutual friends of ours, out for a walk with their 10 month old dog.  We  stopped for a socially distanced chat and a catch up.  As we departed ways a car driving far too fast  around a corner swerved to avoid us cyclists, ploughed its way through the muddy verge on the other side of the road, before swerving  back onto the road to avoid our friends and their dog. A very close shave and a bit of a dampener (excuse the pun) at the end of an incredibly exhilarating bike ride. 

Map with route marked in black.  Dotted line shows route originally planned.