Date 4th March 2021
Destination Gillingham Town Bridge and Parnham Mill
Distance 21 miles
Duration 4 hours 15 minutes.
Weather 6C. Overcast and damp
Inspired by John Constable's paintings of scenes in and around Gillingham in the early 19th Century, our mission today was to cycle to Gillingham Bridge and Purn's Mill, (also known as Perne's Mill or Parham Mill). Having stumbled upon Visit Dorset's - Gillingham: A Walking Trail online, we also hoped to visit some other town landmarks.
We set off from Templecombe across the north western part of the Blackmore Vale towards Buckhorn Weston, climbing up Hartmoor Hill to the top of the limestone ridge. We headed down the other side along Westbrook Road cutting across to Harpitts Lane via Folly Lane. Further downhill as Harpitts Lane becomes Nation Road we found ourselves cycling alongside the River Stour.
Even though it meant adding another mile to our journey and Eccliffe was part of our ride last week, we decided on a detour. Constable had sketched Eccliffe Mill in 1820, we therefore felt it had to be included in our Constable themed bike ride.
Rejoining our planned route we cycled under the main London Waterloo to Exeter St David's Railway line, continuing our way along Common Mead Lane. Unwittingly we cycled past the setting for Constable's "The Entrance to Gillingham", which depicts a view from Common Mead Lane across to St Mary's Church. We turned right into Wyke Road, negotiated traffic lights at the junction of B3092 and B3081 and headed straight across the junction into the old part of town.
Here we referenced "Gillingham A Walking Trail" and en route to Gillingham Bridge we looked at the Old Town Lock Up, Rorty Crankle's two door bells, the buildings for Gillingham's first bank and Slade Department Store, Gillingham's oldest pub (Phoenix Inn) and Gillingham Free School, before making our way along the High Street to Gillingham Bridge.
I'm not sure how much of Gillingham Bridge Constable would recognise today. The Western part of the bridge depicted in Constable's painting is obscured by a footpath bridge and one of the arches on the eastern side (shown above) of the bridge is also obscured. A commemorative plaque identifies the bridge as that painted by John Constable in 1823.
Gillingham is a three rivers town. Shreen Water flows under Gillingham Bridge and through Gillingham Town Meadow, joining the River Stour just before Waitrose.
The River Lodden flows past the eastern side of the town and joins the River Stour south of Gillingham between Eccliffe and Madjeston.
Perne's Mill is located on the northern edge of Gillingham. Leaving the town centre we cycled northwards up the B3092 and turned right towards Colesbrook and left into Purns Mill Lane towards Shreen Water.
Unfortunately the mill Constable painted in 1823 burnt down and in 1825 a new mill was built, bearing little resemblance to the original mill.
Leaving Colesbrook we again headed north on B3092 turning left into Kendall Lane and on to Milton on Stour. After crossing the River Stour we found ourselves crossing over another body of water, a River Stour tributary. Unfortunately I have not been able to discover a name for this headstream.
Turning right into Field Lane we cycled steadily uphill crossing over the B3081 and on towards Cucklington where we had a much later than anticipated refreshment break with views over the Blackmore Vale.
Feeling reasonably refreshed (as much as you can be after cycling seventeen miles!) we headed on down School Hill and into the Blackmore Vale. Cycling along Marsh Lane (one of many in the Blackmore Vale) we noticed a well set back from the road near Marsh Court. Amazingly this is the first time we'd noticed the well even though we have cycled past it often over the last few years.
On our way back to Templecombe we crossed over the River Cale at Abbey Ford Bridge. In the early 13th century the Abbess of Shaftesbury gave permission to build a bridge over the river, thus replacing the ford. Victoria History Somerset Volume vii
Another long but fascinating and interesting ride. A veritable voyage of discovery, which will only be truly completed on viewing original Constable paintings of Gillingham and its environs.
Interesting to see the mills; we may have to harness the power of the water again one day.
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